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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.